Pablo Neruda, Chilean poet and Valpo-lover, wrote these words about the port city which became his home. Friend of poets, painters and philosophers, Valpo is a curious little place which sits in a rather haphazard fashion on the hills of the Chilean coast. Over the last century, half-undressed with tangled hair, it went from being the richest city in Latin America to one of the most dilapidated, and has now settled into the architectural and cultural equivalent of distressed leather - run down, but unashamedly, and increasingly intentionally, cool. It's the haunt of bohemian Chileños, or people who want to be bohemian Chileños, of muralists and graffiti artists, and of enamoured travellers who stumble across it all, like myself.
I'm not really a travel writer so I won't be writing about all the places we visited in South American over the last summer, but this one really stood out. The city consists of several cerros - hill villages - each with their own identity, culture, and pack of stray dogs. Each hill is connected by narrow passageways and staircases - which some crazy kids bike down - and century old ascensors. In fact, the whole city feels like a pedestrian adventure playground. There's even a slide next to one set of stairs on Cerro Alegre, just in case you're not a stairs-kind-of-commuter. Read; hipster.
It's a city that has been furiously claimed, reclaimed, and claimed again. First the giant, colonial houses which were home to the wealthiest expats in the land. Then, when the opening of the Panama Canal diverted the monies away, came the city's darker years, with civil disruption and gang control in many parts of the city. Meanwhile, Chilean hazards such as earthquakes and fires in the hills destroyed much of the architecture. But, then came the most recent claim on the city - a joint bid from the city's artists and the city's elders. In reaction to a (really very bulky) glass building in the port's main square, Valpo was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2003. The Historic Quarter is now caught between its past and present - a memorial of the fantastic pastel-coloured architecture of the colonial period, and the run down building which now, due to the tricky UNESCO rules, cannot be restored.
However, the art-filled streets are what make Valpo such a gem. These houses do not house art - they are art. Brightly-coloured murals of all shapes and sizes plaster the houses on the hills - art fights art as the home-owners invite muralists to paint their homes in an attempt to deter the more common and far less attractive 'tags' found on some buildings. Local legends such as the muralist INTI have displayed their work all over the city, and its as though the porteños (people of the port) have finally been able to reclaim their city as they wish it.
From a culinary perspective, it's all about seafood and chorrillanas. The former takes its best form in empanadas filled with sizzling shrimp washed down with an ice-cold beer, the latter in a dingy port bar, where one is confronted with a mountain of fries, onions, pork and cheese. For the sake of your cholesterol - share.
Of the five South American countries we visited, and of the countless places, Valpo was the one which really got to me. I felt for its unsettled history, I wanted to know its people, and I am fairly sure that we will be returning in the not too distant future. Like many South American cities it is one of many juxtapositions; cosmopolitan with a bit of an edge, wearing its heart and its history on its sleeve, inviting you to simply wander around and see for yourself. Pablo Neruda said it better than I ever could, but for my part, it's just bloody lovely.
All images my own.
No comments:
Post a Comment